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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.